Producing the Goods

Things in Jars

Every gift shop and farm shop seems to have its own range of jams and preserves in jars, usually with a paper mob cap over the lid to add an element of supposed rustic charm. Sadly, a great many of these are made by specialist mass-producers, far from the place, and given identity only through a 'personalised' label. This is clearly not good enough, and the discerning tourist needs to seek out signs of authenticity - in the New Forest and Cornwall, to name but two examples, there are marks given to products which meet the criteria of being produced locally and sensitively.

Exmoor has the Exmoor Producers Association, which was set up in 1995 to promote local makers, and now has around 60 members and a shop in Minehead. Brendon Hill Crafts are one of their members; they source locally for their jams and preserves where possible. Their jars have a bold 'Exmoor' logo on their lids, and some intricately illustrated labels - far more attractive than the standard ubiquitous computer-printed stickers.

The produce from WI markets (now called Country Markets) is a good starting point. Also look out for jams and preserves made from fruit which have a local resonance - apple produce in Somerset or Herefordshire, damsons in Westmorland. Damson Cheese is a particular delicacy, a damson purée, sweetened and cooked until a delicious thick jelly-like consistency. The Garden House (Reeth, north Yorkshire, 50 miles from the centre of Damson growing in Lyth Valley) sell them in conical stoneware moulds. In Meldreth, Cambridgeshire, whose extensive plum and apple orchards date back to the 19th century, you can buy single variety plum jam - Black Diamond in this case. Another place associated with plums, Dittisham in Devon, also makes much of its produce - among other things, you can find Dittisham Plum Butter, a rich fruit paste similar to Damson Cheese. You can buy Pershore Purple Plum Jam in Pershore, though it is made over 150 miles away in Pembrokeshire by Wendy Brandon.

You won't be able to find Helen Abigail's preserves in supermarkets or on-line, but they are very much in evidence in farmers markets in the Warminster (Wiltshire) area, using locally sourced and home-grown ingredients, including unusual ones like 'Mallard' gages. Helen's Preserves is a good example of the one-person cottage industries with different local fare, whose products are best sought out in farm shops and farmers' markets, or the more thoughtful gift shops.

More information:
<www.gardenhousepottery.co.uk>
<www.exmoor-producers.co.uk>
<www.wendybrandon.co.uk>